Before reading Bill Starr's seminal work, "The
Strongest Shall Survive," I was not a connoisseur of organ meat.
Far from it.
My idea of "adventurous eating" was wolfing down the dark meat
after Thanksgiving.
And by that point,
the giblets were long gone via the trash.
Several factors contributed to my "fear" of consuming
organ meat: (1) neither my mother nor my grandmother cooked liver, heart, or
kidneys for me as a kid, (2) finding high-quality product was more difficult
than popping down to the neighborhood grocery store and chatting up the butcher
(more on this shortly), and (3) the texture grossed me out a bit. But I am the type of athlete who will eat
just about anything if a respected coach like Bill Starr says it will improve
performance. So with that, pass the salt, bro.
Starr discusses liver and its many health benefits in his chapter
devoted to "super foods." "The
liver acts as a storehouse for vitamins, it balances hormones, builds amino
acids, it secretes bile to govern intestinal activity. The liver controls bleeding,
combats dangerous clotting, fights viruses and bacterial poisons, releases
energy from food, and performs an amazing variety of functions," he
writes. Starr then goes on to describe
an experiment in which liver-fed rats outperformed their vitamin-enhanced peers
in a genuine test "life or death" endurance – the rats were placed in
a drum of water from which they could not escape, and were required to keep
swimming or else drown. While the
vitamin-enhanced rats swam for an average of 13.4 minutes before they gave up,
the liver-fed rats swam for 63, 83, and 87 minutes, respectively, while the
remainder of the latter population was still swimming vigorously at the end of
two hours.
Now was Starr ahead of the proverbial curve in touting the
health benefits of liver, or was he merely regurgitating long held beliefs?
Of course it is the latter, but, to his credit, he was smart
enough to recognize the success of certain practices. Prior to the industrial revolution, the
cuisine of native populations often included the consumption of organ
meats. In fact, in Steve Ambrose's book,
"Undaunted Courage: Meriwether Lewis, Thomas Jefferson, and the Opening of
the American West," the author, citing to Lewis' original journal entries,
describes in graphic detail the eating of buffalo organs by Native Americans
immediately after a hunt. If memory
serves me correctly, the natives supposedly began eating the organ meat before
the buffalo was even dead (apologies for not citing to the specific passage,
but it seems I have misplaced my copy of "Undaunted Courage").
Here in the non-buffalo roaming swamps of Washington, D.C. I
have been able to procure high-quality beef liver at Eastern Market, an
all-season farmer's market located only a ten-minute walk from my
apartment. For those unfamiliar with
cooking beef liver, or for those just curious about someone else's preparation
methods, I have provided a recipe below:
Ingredients:
Whole milk – 1 – 1 ½ cup(s)
Large ziplock bag - one gallon with zipper top
Bacon, preferably of a thicker cut – ½ pound or slightly
more
White or yellow onion - one, large
Beef liver - 3 pounds, fully thawed
Garlic - fresh, one clove
Cast iron skillet - one
Large bowl - one, just about any size will do
Himalayan salt and pepper
Cooking
Instructions:
Place thawed livers in large ziplock bag. Add whole milk so that milk covers all
livers. Let sit for one hour. This step is critical and should not be
overlooked, as the milk eliminates any funky smell from cooking the liver. If pressed for time, allow to sit for at
least fifteen minutes while oven pre-heats and bacon, onions, and garlic are
prepared.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Remove outer layers of onion and garlic and slice into long,
thin strips (I halve, then quarter the onion, at which point I cut on a
diagonal line to produce thin slices). Garlic
cloves need only be chopped roughly.
Cut bacon into approximately one inch chunks.
Once oven has reached temperature, warm skillet on
moderate-high heat (I use a 7/9 setting at home), then add onion slices, garlic
bits, and bacon chunks. Allow several
minutes to cook on each side. The
pieces should be about 75 percent cooked through by this point. Remove bacon, onions, and garlic while
attempting to keep juices in the skillet.
This is good favor.
Turn down burner heat one notch (6/9 for me), then remove
livers from bag and place in skillet (avoid “overlapping” livers in skillet). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Allow to cook for approximately two minutes
before flipping (this should be enough time for moderate browning, but if not,
allow to sit for another 30 seconds). Repeat
on other side. Cooking on other side will
probably need less time than first due to residual heat in skillet.
Once second side is browned, add bacon, onions, and garlic
back in, dispersing evenly across skillet's face, and place whole skillet in oven. Set timer for four minutes. Chef beware: overcooked liver is gross,
and I have read it tastes like shoe leather.
After removing skillet from oven, let sit for five minutes
or so. When you cut into liver, it
should still hold a slightly pinkish color.
Now, personally, I don't like hot beef liver, so I let pieces
cool then pack them up for breakfasts. That's right, I prefer my beef liver as
leftovers served with three-four fried eggs over easy and sweet potato hash
browns for breakfast. Save your Wheaties,
this meal is the breakfast of champions.